A Complete Guide to the Mohair Suit

A Complete Guide to the Mohair Suit

From boardroom to cocktail bar, Mohair suits are always appropriate. They offer a unique blend of sophistication, comfort, and practicality, making them a great choice for the discerning customer.

Here’s everything you need to know about what to look for in a mohair suit.

What is Mohair?

Mohair is a luxurious, natural fibre derived from the Angora goat. Usually blended with other fibres, mohair brings a slight sheen or iridescence to a cloth. An excellent performance fabric – its crease resistance and its ability to take dye makes it an ideal tailoring material.

At Pepper Lee, we stock a number of mohair cloth, but one collection stands out from the rest: British Mohair. Made by the Masters of Mohair themselves, William Halstead. A classic collection of the finest and most enduring legacy/wool cloths.

History of Mohair Suits.

Mohair has a rich history, dating back to at least 3000 BCE in Anatolia (modern-day Turkey).  The Angora goat, source of mohair fibres, thrived there.  Ancient civilizations prized mohair's softness, warmth, and durability, and as trade routes expanded, mohair fabrics reached Europe by the 13th century.

Royalty and aristocracy embraced mohair's luxurious qualities, solidifying its reputation as a high-end material. The 19th century saw mohair travel further, with Angora goats gifted to the U.S. and mohair blended with wool for garments like military uniforms. 

In the early 20th century, mohair's popularity continued to soar, especially in the fashion industry. The glamorous Hollywood scene of the 1930s, further boosted mohair's reputation, as stars and celebrities were often seen wearing mohair garments.

Although Mohair will forever be associated with the sharp two-tone suits worn by the mods of the 60s and 70s. ‘Mods’ short for Modernists, were an aspirational subculture of young men and women who dressed smartly and beautifully as a statement of rebellion against the austerity of their parent's generation. Eventually morphing into the Swinging Sixties, this generation of youngsters helped define the teenager. It was the first time you could wear tailoring and still look edgy.

Perhaps though, it was Elton John who has eternalised the Mohair suit. Referencing the glamour and extravagance, characteristic of the glam rock era of the early 1970s with his song, ‘Bennie and the Jets’ with the line ‘Electric boots and a mohair suit’. The song became one of his most popular and enduring hits.

Mohair Suit in Modern Fashion

Mohair suits retain their shape exceptionally well, creating a crisp appearance. This luxurious fabric remains a favourite on Savile Row for dinner suits, particularly in slate blue. James Bond himself is a frequent wearer, showcasing mohair's timeless elegance.  The fabric photographs beautifully, making it perfect for formal occasions where you'll be in the spotlight.

While ideal for formal settings, mohair can also be incorporated into more relaxed summer looks. Opt for a lightweight mohair blazer in a neutral tone, like beige or light grey. Pair it with linen trousers and a crisp white t-shirt for a summer twist. The relaxed look of the trousers will complement and tone down the more structured look of the mohair jacket.

Mohair looks equally dashing with an Escorial stole.

Finding the Finest Mohair

Mohair is graded by type, then by length, micron, colour and style. Correct shearing is important so that very short fibres are avoided, and the fleece length is as uniform as possible. The brands we source from, only use the highest quality fibres to produce long-lasting, beautiful cloth.

The British Mohair collection offers both Camdeboo Mohair, Kid Mohair and Summer Kid Mohair selections. When choosing the perfect fabric for your suit, consider ordering swatches of each type. This allows you to compare the feel and drape of the different blends and pick the one that best suits your preferences.

Here’s our recommendations to help you get started

Stripe Summer Kid Mohair Super 120's Wool

Glen Check Kid Mohair Super 100's Wool

Plain Camdeboo Mohair
Stripe Summer Kid Mohair.
60% Summer Kid Mohair, 40% Super 120s Wool
Glen Check Mohair Super 100's.

60% Summer Kid Mohair, 40% Super 120s Wool

Plain Camdeboo Mohair 

100% Camdeboo 

 

The mohair suit is a sartorial treasure.  Its rich history, luxurious feel, and enduring style make it a worthwhile investment for anyone looking to elevate their wardrobe.  From classic elegance to modern interpretations, mohair offers versatility that makes an easy transition from business to smart casual. Discover the exquisite world of British Mohair here. The entire collection is now half price for a limited time only.

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