A flannel suit is defined by its unique fabric: flannel. This material is easily recognised by its distinctive 'fuzzy' appearance, achieved through a special finishing process. Flannel strikes a perfect balance between being distinguished and casually refined, offering an approachable elegance that defies the constraints of time, place, or occasion. Renowned for its less formal appearance, a flannel suit adds warmth and texture to your outfit, creating an intriguing and timeless look.
In this guide, we’ll explore the history of flannel, explain its various types, and recommend the best flannels for your wardrobe.
Which is the Best Flannel?
At Pepper Lee, we offer two distinct types of flannel: Oxbridge and Stonedale. Both are sourced and manufactured by John Foster, each offering unique qualities based on the material used—woollen or worsted.
The Woollen Flannel Suit
Woollen flannel is characterised by its soft and fuzzy texture, crafted from short and varied-diameter wool fibres. This type of flannel offers warmth, making it ideal for colder climates. Our collection of heavy woollen flannels, woven by the renowned John Foster, is perfect for suiting, trousers, or versatile jackets to keep you warm during the cold months.
Stonedale Flannel
Inspired by the diverse elements of Yorkshire, the Stonedale collection reflects the green landscapes of the Yorkshire Dales. Crafted from 100% woollen flannel, it offers a strong vintage flair with retro inspiration. The Stonedale flannel is not only rich in texture and history but also aligns with sustainability practices, being made from Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified wool.
Composition: 100% RWS Woollen Flannel
Weight: 450gms
The Worsted – Woollen Flannel Suit
Worsted flannel is made from combed long-staple wool fibres, resulting in a smoother and finer yarn. This gives it a refined texture and drape, making it a pleasure to own and a delight to wear.
Oxbridge Flannel
Oxbridge Flannel is a worsted-woollen hybrid, rooted in tradition and John Foster's long British heritage. The Oxbridge collection blends classic shades with vibrant hues and autumnal tones. The fabric’s soft handle is due to traditional double mill finishing techniques, creating a blind finish. This collection features a comprehensive range of coordinated plains and patterns, including chalk stripes, houndstooth, checks, and a modern twist on the classic Glen check.
Composition: 100% Super 120’s Wool
Weight: 370gms
Both collections are of John Foster’s signature high quality and feature timeless designs. The choice between worsted and woollen flannel depends on your desired aesthetics, formality, and intended use. Whether you prefer the soft, traditional feel of Oxbridge Flannel, or the robust, vintage-inspired Stonedale Flannel, each offers a unique blend of heritage and contemporary fashion.
When to Wear a Flannel Suit?
Flannel suits are perfect for making a subtle statement. Due to the insulating properties of wool flannel fabric, these suits are typically recommended for the colder months. From autumn, through to winter and late spring, a flannel suit will keep you warm and comfortable, making it an ideal choice for cooler weather and more casual events.
What is Melange Colour?
A hallmark of quality flannels is the "melange" colour. But what does this mean? Typically, fabrics are yarn-dyed, which gives the woven material a uniform colour. Melange fabrics, however, are different. For Stonedale Flannel, the fabric undergoes a traditional finishing technique that involves twice scouring the cloth for an extended period. This process enhances the softness of the woollen fibres.
During milling, the yarn fibres burst, revealing the interplay of light and shade in the melange colours. This results in a beautiful, mottled appearance. Although the fabric may seem solid from a distance, the melange process adds depth and richness that is absent in plain fabrics. This effect imparts a slightly less formal and more relaxed, nonchalant look to the flannel.
Here is one of our favourite melange shades:
Plain 100% RWS Wool - Autumn Green
How Durable is a Flannel Suit?
Flannel suits are considered durable. Compared to plain woven fabrics, flannel tends to be thicker and heavier. The added weight and volume mean there’s more material to wear through, which contributes to the suit's overall durability.
Here’s a selection of heavier weight flannels to choose from:
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Chalk Stripe 100% RWS Wool |
Chalk Stripe 100% RWS Wool |
The Origin of Flannel
Flannel is believed to have originated in Wales in the 17th century as a softer alternative to plain wool clothing. Crafted from worsted yarn, it provided enhanced warmth and protection against the harsh Welsh winters. Its durability, affordability, and warmth quickly gained popularity across Europe, leading to the establishment of woollen mills in England and France. The Industrial Revolution further advanced flannel production through mechanical processes like carding, solidifying its place as a staple textile.
The Grey Flannel Suit
In the modern era, flannel is most commonly associated with the grey flannel suit. While flannel has a long history, the grey flannel suit gained iconic status in the 1950s, thanks to the film The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit. This movie helped cement the suit as a staple in wardrobes around the world.
Styling
The grey flannel suit comes in various styles, including single-breasted with notched or peaked lapels and options for two or three buttons. It looks particularly stylish in patterns such as chalk stripes or windowpane. Lighter grey flannel suits, often chosen by those with a refined sense of style, can make a striking impression.
Versatility
The grey flannel suit is highly versatile. It can be dressed up with a discreet off-white spread-collared shirt and a spotted silk tie or dressed down with a checked shirt and knitted tie. In old Hollywood, it was frequently worn with cashmere polos or rollneck pullovers. Since the latter half of the 19th century, the grey flannel suit has symbolised both Ivy League style and the Eastern establishment corporate look. Post-World War II, it represented a more understated, democratic elegance suitable for the new era of egalitarianism.
Modern Appeal
Today, the grey flannel suit blends a touch of structure with eccentricity, adapting well to modern styles. It pairs beautifully with both stronger colours and subtle pastels, even in formal settings like the boardroom. The once rigid corporate uniform of hard-finished worsteds with white shirts and dark ties has given way to more relaxed options. Adding a splash of colour through a silk pocket square or vibrant silk beneath the trouser cuffs can enhance the suit’s appeal.
In a world full of fleeting trends, the grey flannel suit remains a timeless classic. Here are our recommendations:
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| Bold Windowpane Suiting Cloth Check Super 120's Wool Flannel | Windowpane Check Super 120's Wool Flannel | Plain 100% RWS Wool |
Flannel’s timeless appeal and versatility make it a classic choice for any wardrobe. To explore our full range of flannel fabrics, see here.
